L.A.M. (large area mowing)
You have a large turf bed area to cut. We have the equipment and experience to cover you. From 5,000 – 50,000 square feet, we have done it.
Our current fleet includes a John Deer and a Gravley.
The John Deer is a x350R 42-inch deck tractor style lawn tractor with a center rear bag collector. This machine does a great job not only with cleaning up the turfgrass clippings but also during the summer or fall/winter cleaning up leaves off of the turfgrass. We can also run this tractor in either mulch mode or rear discharge mode. Our experience shows that we can not be price competitive when turf cutting large areas with a small 21-inch walk behind mower. The time savings when cutting with a large mower is around 80% compared to a 21-inch walk behind.
Our other tractor is a Gravley zt2040 40 inch deck zero-turn tractor. It has the ability to work in tight small areas and is set up as a mulching tractor with an option for side discharge.
Mowing and Edging
Simple, right! Just push or ride a mower around the turf bed. Sadly, many people see mowing is a menial task with no skill or technical knowledge required. Understanding the technical nature of the equipment and turf grass is mandatory if consistent quality work is to be completed. Lets start with deck height. Far too many turf beds we see are cut as if to resemble a golf course putting green. That’s fine of you want to pull out the putters and go at it. Otherwise not a great way to promote healthy turf roots and thus turf grass. Lets say somewhere between 2-3.5 inches from the soil base is a healthy length to maintain. In the summer the added height will aid in water perseverance by shading the turf roots.
Sharp Blades. Another item that should be discussed with your maintenance service provider is the interval they change their mower blades. It is our best practice to change mower blades as soon as they appear dull – this could be every week or sooner. A dull blade will tend to rip the turf leaf blade versus a clean cut. An experienced operator can actually hear the difference when cutting a turf bed with a sharp blade. Is it really necessary to change blades that often? If you want great looking cuts it is.
Cut Pattern. This point may seem too simplistic to even mention and yet it is still happening – much more then it should be. You may have seen lawns where the mower has gone over the same cut pattern for so long that wheel grooves and cut trenches appear. Not a nice sight. A simple but effective remedy is to change your mower cut pattern every week. Even a slight change, 1/2 of the mowers deck width off the normal cut pattern will help.
Would you want your Doctor to prescribe medicine to help control some blood related illness without having a blood test completed? Probably not! We see the soil as the blood of the garden and in order to make good recommendations, we need to know what is happening with the soil. We will keep repeating the same message – IT’S ALL ABOUT THE SOIL!
Organic Fertilizer Programs:
Regarding fertilizer some operators dump large quantities of fertilizer in the spring and then sit back and watch their turf beds struggle over the remainder of the season. We approach fertilizing turf beds differently. First, understand what is happening with the soil – we test the soil. Second, apply some compost or compost tea onto the turf beds. Third, if your going to use a fertilizer use an organic blend and in smaller amounts applied every two to three months throughout the year. Result: healthy turf grass twelve months a year.
It is proven that aerated turf beds are better off due to the increased air circulation the root system. Is it what we would call good turf grass housekeeping. You can rent a machine yourself and complete the work and you may also find it much more convenient and less expensive to have us complete the work for you. The simple fact is we complete many aeration jobs over a day and thus charge out a small machine usage fee to each job; we also have the means to get the machine to your place – you need a truck and trailer as these machines are heavy. If you have never completed aeration work using a standard aerator – it’s a bit of a bull ride keeping these brutes inline. You will get a work out, that’s for sure!
The real reason to dethatch is to remove….thatch. What is thatch? It is the thick undergrowth that builds up between the roots and the top turf grass and can cause issues such as water and nutrient absorption among other items. We use the dethatch process more often then not to clean up and thin out a turf bed before it is over-seeded and top dressed. Either way, if you have a thick thatch that needs remedied or as part of a turf bed renewal process – it is money well spent.